Saturday, January 25, 2014

Headstock Ramps

I chiseled the ramps on the nut end of the tuner slots today.  I used tape to draw the lines because its hard to see pencil marks on the wood.
Here are two different views after the carving was complete.



I've also started thinking about an inlay for the headstock.  I think I'll do just a letter A (for Atkinson), but I'm still trying to determine a font to use.  I think I'll just do a plain jane letter A because it will probably be easier, but I'm also looking at other fonts also.  I've got a sample cut out of 1/16 thick basswood.  I think a light inlay with the dark mahogany head will look good.  I'm going to practice doing the inlay on a piece of scrap wood first so that I don't mess up my head doing it for the first time.

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Heel cutting

I made the first cut on the heel today with a coping saw.  I definitely need to invest in a band saw for my next instrument.

Monday, January 20, 2014

Headstock

I got the tuner holes drilled today and cut out the headstock slots

I used a doweling jig from Harbor Freight to drill the 5 tuner holes

After drilling all the holes I did a check and noticed that I got my headstock a little bit too thin so the tuner plate over hangs the edge a little bit.  I was aiming for a 3/4 inch thickness, but got a little bit aggressive with the hand plane so ended up taking too much off.  I'll be more careful next time.
To make the slots in the headstock, I drilled 4 1/2 inch holes on each end of the slots and then drew lines between the holes to cut with a coping saw
I got a little bit too close to my line on the treble side, so that slot is pretty ugly.  I don't think I'll be able to correct it.  Next time I won't cut so close to my line and then clean up the slot with chisels and files.  I'm fairly pleased with the bass side slot though.  I think it will clean up nice with just a little work with a file and sandpaper.
Since nobody (as far as I know) makes tuners for a 10 string instrument, I bought tuners for a 12 string guitar and had to cut off one of the tuners.  I felt a little bit uneasy about cutting off one of the tuner keys after paying 80 dollars for the set, but it seems like that is the standard method.  Alternatively, I could buy 10 individual tuners, but I don't think that would look as clean.
Its finally starting to look like something with the tuners in.  Obviously I need to clean up the slots, but here it is with the tuners installed.

Sunday, January 19, 2014

Neck

I'm starting with the neck because the rest of the instrument is built around the neck.  I got the neck blank from StewMac.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bodies,_necks,_wood/Acoustic_guitar_necks/Sipo_Mahogany_Neck_Blanks_for_Classical_Guitar.html

Its Sipo Mahogany, which is supposed to be very similar to "regular" Mahogany which is the traditional wood used for guitar necks.

1 - Scarf joint cut at a 15 degree angle.




2 - Cleaning up joint - I previously had no experience with hand planes so I signed up for a hand tool class in Dallas that taught me how to use and most importantly sharpen planes, chisels and saws.

3. Glueing the joint

4. Final glue joint - This isn't the best joint in the world, I probably could have sanded the two pieces more to get a flatter surface.  Hopefully this little gap won't become a problem later on.


5. Glueing the heel block - Yet another reason that I wanted to build in the Spanish style, is the use of a stacked heel block.  Steel String necks are generally cut from a single large mahogany block which requires a large band saw.  A stacked heel block is thought to be inferior from a craftsmanship perspective on Steel string guitars.  However, on classical guitars it's standard.  Its weird to me how different "tribes" are snobbish about different things.  The neck blank that I bought either wasn't long enough, or I didn't measure very well because it wasn't long enough to make enough sections for the stacked block.  So I went to the local lumberyard and bought some maple.  So the neck block will be alternating dark (mahogany) and light (maple).


6.  Rib (side) slots - In the Spanish method, the sides connect to the neck with thin slots like this:

However, my handsaw use isn't very precise so I messed up the cuts.  I then discovered a different method used by many classical builders.  Rather than make a thin slot, they make a large slot and then use wedges to hold the sides tight against the neck block.

Here is a good looking example, note that the wedges haven't been trimmed flush yet.


Here is what it should look like after the wedges are trimmed:


And here is what mine looks like.  Its not a very pretty cut, but I think once the heel block gets trimmed down, and I clean up the slot with files and sandpaper, it should be fine.




7. Headstock - I'm cutting out the rough shape with a coping saw.  I'll clean it up with files and sandpaper.


Saturday, January 11, 2014

Bajo Quinto Build

I've spent most of the last year reading and watching videos about building guitars.  There are two schools of guitar building; steel string and Classical/spanish.  I've spent equal time on both methods of construction and decided for my first build, I'd build in the Spanish style.

For my first "guitar" build, I decided to build a Bajo Quinto which is a 10 string guitar used in Texas/Mexico border music (Conjunto, Norteno, etc).  I want to start building guitars and I thought this would be a good instrument to start with for a few reasons.  First, traditionally, Bajo Sexto/Quinto's are constructed in the same way that Classical Guitars are, in the Spanish Guitar method of attaching the sides directly to the neck of the guitar.  This method of construction doesn't require any fancy molds and jigs like steel string guitars typically require.  My next instrument will be a steel string acoustic guitar, but here is a list of reasons why I'm not starting with a steel string acoustic guitar.

1.  I want to build something that is like a Classical guitar, but I don't want to actually build a Classical guitar because I don't really have an interest in Classical Guitar music, except from an academic point of view learning about the history of guitars.  Classical guitar players and enthusiasts seem generally pretentious.
2.  Having said that, I want to build in the Classical/Spanish style because there is much more instructional material available for Classical Guitars than Steel String guitars.
3.  The instruction material available for Classical guitars makes extensive use of traditional techniques, i.e. more use of hand-tools.  Most steel string guitar books and videos seem to be of more utility to a small factory/mass production model of building which requires a lot of power tools and molds.
4.  One of the most intimidating parts of building a steel string guitar is making the neck joint.  Ideally I'd like to make traditional dovetail joints, however my craftsmanship isn't at a level that I can cut a dovetail very precisely right now.  The alternative which I will use for my first few guitars will be a bolt-on Mortise and Tenon neck joint.  The neck joint on Classical guitars seems to me to be the easiest joint because the sides are attached into slots in the neck.  The guitar is built upside down on a work board that should ensure ideal neck geometry (action), whereas using a dovetail or mortise-and-tenon neck it requires a lot of fiddling with to make sure neck is at the correct angle from the body.  Bajo quinto's are normally built in the Spanish style.  So by building a bajo quinto, I can bypass how to make a neck joint for the time being and concentrate on some of the other skills that will be required.
The benefit of dovetail/mortise and tenon necks is that the necks can be removed if required for adjustments and then be put back with relative ease.  Adjusting the neck on a classical guitar is virtually impossible unless you want to destroy the guitar and put it back together.  Classical guitars use nylon strings and therefore the string tension isn't as great as the tension on a steel string guitar.  So in a perfect world, classical guitars don't need their necks reset.  Bajo quinto's use steel strings, but they are tuned lower and in addition, the tops are generally thicker with more robust bracing.  So although there are 10-12 strings on a bajo, they shouldn't need neck adjustments either.
5.  No Truss Rod - For similar reasons as are listed above, steel string guitars have reinforcing rods installed in the neck to resist bending the neck due to string tension.  Classical guitars, and traditional bajo quinto's don't use truss rods.  This step requires using a router, or chisels if doing it by hand to make a channel in the neck to insert the truss rod.  Building a bajo, I can skip this step and worry about how to do it later.
6.  Flat Fretboard - Steel String guitars usually have radiuses fingerboards for better playability.  Classical guitars/bajo quinto's have flat fingerboards.  Making a radiuses fingerboard requires some specialized tools that I don't want to worry about for right now.  Since I'm starting my shop from scratch, I want to minimize the number of tools that I need and concentrate on basic tools rather than specialized tools.
7. Flat top - Despite being called flat top guitars, steel string acoustics generally don't have flat tops.   They usually have domed or cylindrical tops to add structural stability to the top and resist it from caving in due to string tension.  This once again requires specialized tools to do this. Classical guitars typically also have a very slight radius in the lower half of the guitar, but the top half of the guitar is typically flat in order to have the proper geometry between the body and the neck of the guitar.  The guy who is helping me out with building says that traditional bajo sexto's/quinto's have flat tops.  These are folk instruments, so the building style reflects that.  Most modern builders will however make a very slight radius in the top.  I'm going to stick with purely traditional methods and build the top flat.  This way I can just build it on top of a flat piece of ply-wood, and not have to worry about carving out a dished work board.
8.  Lastly, I've met a few guys who build bajo's who have been very supportive and have given me plans, advice, etc.  They have a very folk instrument mentality and are eager to help out others.  The few steel string luthiers that I've met, have all been professionals, so they don't have the time or probably the desire to share trade secrets.  I've yet to meet other hobbyist builders who are probably more inclined to help a newbie.

So as a quick recap, I'm building a bajo quinto because they are similar to classical guitars.  There are many classical guitar books and videos available that use primarily hand tools in construction.  The construction method seems less intimidating (no neck joint, no truss rod, no radiuses fingerboard, no radius to top).